ポートワインはポルトガルの宝石と呼ばれ、赤いものが一般的であるが、最近注目を集めているのは琥珀色のポートワイン。古い樽で長期間熟成させられ、風味豊かで美味しいとされている。ポートワインは瓶熟成や木樽での熟成が特徴的で、最近50年以上熟成したトウニーポートが日本でも注目されている。琥珀色のオールド・トウニーは糖度や酸味が増すため、年代が上がるほど味に深みが出る。飲み頃で保管が簡単なので、贈り物にもおすすめ。
Author: Rika Azuma (Overseas Writers’ Club/Writer Living in Portugal)
Known as “Portugal’s gem,” Port wine is mostly made up of rare red wines with a beautiful ruby-like red color, which is famous for fortified wine.
However, there is also a “amber-colored” Port wine that has been attracting attention worldwide in recent years. Let’s introduce the deeply satisfying long-aged wine that is perfect for this season.
What is Amber-Colored Port Wine?
Port Wine refers to fortified wine produced near “Porto,” Portugal. Fortified wine refers to wine to which alcohol is added during the brewing process. It is known for its rich flavor and sweetness, and has been popular as a dessert wine among British gentlemen since the 18th century, as well as enjoyed as a holiday drink in Europe during the winter.
In Japan, when people hear Port wine, they may think of “Red Ball Port Wine” (currently known as Sweet Wine). Port wine is famous for its beautiful ruby color, particularly the most premium ones made from the finest grapes, called “Vintage Port Wine.”
However, in recent years, there has been a rise in the popularity of Port wine that is not ruby in color, rivalling the Vintage Port Wine. This is the long-aged Port wine with an amber color, known as “Old Tawny.” By the way, the word “tawny” in English means tan or amber in color.
I visited the renowned Port wine maker “Taylor’s” in Portugal to learn more about the manufacturing process and the charm of Old Tawny.
“Sharing with Angels”: Barrel-Aged Wine
Taylor’s, founded in 1692, is a prestigious winery with over 300 years of history. They offer tours where visitors can learn about the manufacturing process and history of Port wine, as well as have tastings.
This time, Ana, Taylor’s PR representative, showed me around.
As soon as I entered the aging cellar with rows of barrels, I was enveloped in a sweet and aromatic fragrance. The origin of this aroma is the wine that has evaporated inside the cellar, known as the “angels’ share.”
When wine is aged in barrels, the wine breathes through the wood, slowly maturing while coming into contact with oxygen. Normally, even high-quality wines intended for long-term aging are aged in barrels for about 2 years and then transferred to bottle aging without further air exposure. However, as fortified wines, Old Tawny wines can withstand long, gentle oxidation processes, spending at least 10 years in the barrels. This aging process creates a complex, deep flavor and a smooth texture. Also, during the aging process, the wine’s alcohol and moisture evaporate—attributed to the “angels’ share”—resulting in a concentrated aroma and more robust flavor. Additionally, the color gradually changes from the young grapes’ reddish-purple to the amber color.
Unlike regular wines, which often use new oak barrels to infuse the wine with its aroma, Port wine is aged in seasoned wine barrels that do not impart woody flavors. Even barrels that are hundreds of years old are continuously used, with portions replaced by “Tanoeler” (barrel makers) if damaged.
Due to the high sugar content, with sediment forming inside the barrels, the wine is transferred to different barrels and the barrels are cleaned annually, a process that continues until the time of shipment. Many people carefully manage these long aging processes.
Over 50-Year-Old Ports Launched in Japan This Year
Are you curious to try Old Tawny wines?
Old Tawny wines of 10, 20, 30, and even up to 40 years are available in the market. In 2021, 50-year-aged “Berry Old Tawny” and over 80-year-old “Berry Berry Old Tawny,” creating a new category of Tawny Port, were released for sale. This aged Tawny Port, with half a century or more, has attracted wine fans worldwide. In Japan, the 50-year-aged Port was first introduced in May 2023 by the Japan-Portugal Chamber of Commerce and Industry.
I had the opportunity to taste Taylor’s 10, 30, 50, and 80-year-old Old Tawny wines. I expected the older ones to have more delicate flavors as they aged, but due to the evaporation of water and alcohol, the sweetness and acidity increase over time, resulting in a more lively and vivid character, all the while retaining a smooth mouthfeel.
As they age, the berry-like fruitiness diminishes, giving way to flavors reminiscent of caramel, orange, and even cigars.
Ana said, “It’s not about thinking that the older it is, the better it tastes, but rather choosing a flavor you prefer.”
Her personal preference is the 10-year-old Old Tawny, which she enjoys while cracking walnuts on a winter evening after finishing work and dinner, and ultimately relaxing in her favorite chair.
All Tawny Ports are ready to drink upon shipment, so you can start enjoying them right away. Since sediments are removed, decanting is not necessary. Also, unlike regular wines, they are accustomed to air exposure, so after opening, you can store them in the refrigerator for months. The cork is also a suitable stopper for storage.
Aged over a long period and matured to an amber color, these wines are perfect for the winter and make great gifts for your loved ones.
Taylor’s Port
https://www.taylor.pt/
Address: Rua do Choupelo, nº 250, 4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Author: Rika Azuma
A writer currently residing in Portugal after living in Brazil and the United States. She is the author of “Do What You Love, And Live Happily–15 Stories of Unconventional Living in Portland.” A member of the Overseas Writers’ Club (https://www.kaigaikakibito.com/).